Thursday, July 03, 2003

Just Dive-It


Got an unexpected Guestbook entry from David Tyler, the wonderful guy who arranged our diving holiday. Dave holds office in Khaosan Road, but he is very friendly and prompt in responding to requests for reservations by e-mail and phone. Anybody interested in diving or getting certified should check him out. We have no complaints. He was patient in answering all our questions and got us on the train, bus, and boat to Koh Tao and back at good rates -- including discounts with Buddha View for our diving lessons -- even when we changed our departure dates at short notice.

Visit his cool website at http://www.just-diveit.com/ to find out more.





Saturday, April 19, 2003

Wednesday - Apr. 16, 2003


Alright! We're now certified for advanced open water as well aftwer doing 5 more dives. We did three yesterday and the last one was a nightdive, pretty intense and out-of-this world considering diving during the day is far out in itself.

During day dives we went as deep as 30m/100 ft, but we saw more interesting stuff at 18m. Beautiful creatures like blue spotted stingray, the cute box fish, angel fish, banded fish, parrot fish, pufferfish, star fishes, etc. Our instructor and divemaster saw a moray eel but I wasn't brave enough to peek into holes and cracks.

There is also a clown fish named Sebastian that Luke trained to pick food and tiny shells from his fingers then drop it in his hand.

Koh Tao means turtle island because there used to be a lot of green turtles here, but now they're not as common. Some of our fellow divers did see one yesterday.

What is common here, though, are trigger fishes -- big and nasty fishes notorious for attacking divers in defense of their territories. We saw a couple and obediently steered clear when Luke gave the signal. Incidentally, the mascot on Buddha View's logo and t-shirts is a trigger fish.

During the nightdive we saw a couple of barracudas hunting for fish. They were huge, about 4-5 ft long. It was coooool.

I had a brief scare last night because my mask got flooded just when I started to float up and I hit the inflator instead of the deflator so I went straight up and nearly hit the surface. Luckily for me the rope was right above so I was able to grab it and stay under for another few minutes to clear my mask and normalize my breathing. We were supposed to have a 3-minute safety stop at 5 meters when that happended, but I didn't feel any ill effects so I'm okay.

Brian also saw what happened and stayed close to me. I was surprised he even recognized me, but he said he could tell which one is me because of the way I move.

Monday - Apr. 14, 2003


Koh Tao really is a diver's paradise. It is now for us, too, after we officially got certified Monday, Apr. 14. Yes, we made it, yipee!

We watched the video, completed all classroom lessons, quizzes, the final exam, one session in the swimming pool, and four dives in open water in various depth. Our last two dives was also videotaped for posterity.

But I'm getting ahead of myself. In previous mail I mentioned how miserable and scared I was. Well, I still have butterflies in my stomach everytime we go out diving. It's the same feeling I get before rappelling of boarding a rollercoaster. So I pretty much know it goes away once I hit the point of no return. In the case of diving, the first 5 minutes of hitting the water is always panic-time. I hate the mask, hate having to breathe through the regulator, my body's initial instinct is to surface and breathe through the nose.

Three things helped me get through all these jitters. First, there's Brian of course, who as my swimming buddy helps me put on all the gear properly, and regularly checks on me if I was okay. It's also nice to see him having so much fun, peering under every coral and lagging behind that the divemaster has to prod him to keep going.

Second, is Luke, our young ands cool instructor. He' s a lanky Englishman, young and blond, a good-looking version of Brendan Frasier. With three years experience in diving, he is Buddha View's youngest instructor. He is full of enthusiasm and passion when he talks about how much he enjoys diving, especially diving in Thailand. He is also competent as an instructor, has a natural talent for giving instructions and telling stories without boring us needlessly.

He`s a good communicator, patiently matching exagerrated gestures when he` demonstrating something and then repeats everything underwater. He taught us the different hand signals for the fishes we might come across while diving. He swings his arm high to indicate batfish, or "if you`re Britih and know cricket, I will swing low." For sharks he placed his palm sideways against his forehead to signify fin. But for whale sharks, which are in season now, and are huge fishes, he has a different signal -- it`s arm stretched wide ("huge"), some humping motion ("f***ing"), and the fin again ("shark~).

So he knows when to get serious and has the right touch for comedy just enough to make us relax. He is positive and is always encouraging and He is safety conscious but pragmatic. If we do something uncool like wear our mask on our forehead or miss a step in the procedure, he fines us a bottle of beer. Brian got an extra fine for donning his wetsuit backwards.

Luke also taught us new skills, trivial stuff that make diving fun -- like jumping off the boat James Bond style, you know, kinda like a backflip. He also taught us to blow rings underwater. This is all captured on video. The highlight is when we had to remove our mask and put it back on as part of our test, but before putting it on we put on a pair of sunglasses and did some funky dance moves for the camera.

The third reason why I made it is the great company of classmates we had. On our first day we started with Libby, an English lass traveling around the world with her huband Steve for their first anniversary; and Allen who is also Brit and is traveling with his Japanese girlfriend Yoko. As soon as it was made clear that we'd be swimming with buddies Libby and Allen convinced their respective partners to sign up as well. Then there's Cynthia, an environmental engineer from Canada, who is traveling to Asia alone. She signed up as soon as she arrived and was able to join the latter part of our classroom lessons. Last but not least is our divemaster Graham, from Scotland. He came to Koh Tao three weeks ago to get certified, and like many others before him, got hooked to diving and kept going for more lessons. He's now training to become either a divemaster or instructor. We did not run into any Americans in the island. Most of the foreigners here are from UK, Germany, or Japan.

Anyway, we had great fun and we quickly bonded. Steve and Libby are a real fun-loving, easy-going couple who just pent two months traveling around India. When Luke discussed how important it was to drink mineral water so we won`t get dehydrated, Steve suggested fruits like bananas. Luke said he doesn`t like bananas because they make him constipated. Without missing a beat Steve replied, "you`re supposed to take them orally."

So that`s the kind of group we hung out with. Pretty soon we were dining together, especially with Cynthia, who had the unfortunate experience of having somebody broke into her room in Buddha View. She, at least, locked up her valuables and the only thing that was taken was her gold chain that was left in the dresser. To make matters worse, when she complained to a Thai manager he contradicted everything she said, insisting that nothing like this ever happened in years, that maybe she left the door open -- and when they pointed out that the screen in her window was torn, he suggested it was her fault for not closing her window. Anyway, even though the manager told her she can`t move to our resort because it` full, she did find a room next to us and that jut made it eaier for all of us to hang out because Steve and Libby and Allen are also staying in the same resort.

Overall, Buddha View is a good diving school. All the instructors and divemasters we met are friendly and helpful. One of them, a big German guy named Frank, beamed when he found out I was from the Philippines. He has lived there (Boracay and Bohol) for 3 years, and although he's been in Thailand for 6 years, he said he likes the Philippines and Filipinos better.

Buddha View is a five-star diving facility, and according to Graham, one of the largest in the world based on the number of students certified and courses it runs. Things do run efficiently here. We're always on time and when we show up all our gear are ready.

The entire island of Koh Tao does cater primarily to traveling divers. So much so that even with the abundance of bar and restaurants, everything pretty much shuts down at 11 pm because people go to bed early and get up early to dive. Luke for example, usually goes home at 7 and is up at 6. In a way, if you don`t snorkel or dive, there` nothing much to do in Koh Tao.

So as soon as Luke signed our dive logs and papers, we signed up for Advanced course. Isn't that crazy??? This time it' Brian's idea and treat!

Sunday - Apr. 13, 2003



Happy Thai New Year or Songkran Festival to everyone!

We're scuba diving in Koh Tao and we're about to take two more dives in open water that will make us certified divers.

I'm scared. When we dived today I panicked and almost backed out because I was having so much trouble equalizing for the two 12-meter dives today. My ear hurt like somebody stuck a needle in and my nose bled after two dives. I have a congestion which makes it impossible for me to clear the air that's still trapped inside my ears. Every time I blow my nose my ears make squeaking and hissing sounds. I don't think I will be able to make it tomorrow when we're going for the 18-meter and 14-meter dives.

Brian is having the time of his life. To think that it took me about a year to convince him to take diving lessons. He had an ear infection years ago and he was concerned diving will hurt his ear. So I finally got around to it by telling him I would arrange and pay for everything, as my birthday present to him.

Arranging it wasn't as hard as I thought. According to the Internet Koh Tao, the turtle island in the Gulf of Thailand, offers the best value for money to get certified in Thailand. Good diving sites are so plentiful here that every one who comes here lives and breathes diving. The abundance of diving schools and dive resorts ensured a healthy competition that kept prices down. The waters are clear and calm for most part of the year. This 21 sq.km island has a rich marine life in its shallow reefs, capes, coves, and bay.

I picked Buddha-View because it had good rating and came well-recommended in many diving websites, and started corresponding with their point man in Bangkok. His name is Dave, an Englishman based in Khaosan Road, and he was very helpful. He and the manager, named Mark, offered us a discounted rate that made the total cost of a four-day dive course with free four-night basic accommodation and transportation with transfers very very affordable for 8,000 baht, just under $200.

Because of the unexpected two-week school holiday, we opted to move our trip two days earlier. So Wednesday evening found us in "backpackers central" of Khaosan Road to see Dave and pick up our tickets. Brian has never been this part of Bangkok and we both enjoyed watching all the colorful lights, colorful wares, and colorful people. We saw white men with shaved heads looking like Thai monks, Japanese tourists with blond hair looking like white men, and Thai men with dredlocks looking like black men. Many women out in the streets either already their hair in braids or were in the process of getting them done right on the sidewalk.

Around 8:30 pm we put on our backpacks and followed a group of travelers to our aircon bus. The trip was 7-hours long, terribly long for Brian who could never fall asleep in a bus or car. We don't have much choice, the sleeper trains were fully booked even though we made reservations two months earlier. We had a chance to stretch out and sleep on the floor at the bus/boat terminal for 3 hours, then boarded the Koh Tao Cruiser for the final 2-hour leg of this journey. Give credit to Dave for efficiently arranging everything. We were met at the pier by the driver of Buddha View and promptly took our spot in the pick up truck with other travelers who came to Koh Tao for one reason and one reason alone -- to dive.

Buddha View is located in a small shallow bay called Chalok Baan Kao, about 5-minute ride from the town. It is secluded and quieter. With bungalows, bars, and restaurants neatly tucked under the shade of coconut trees. Unlike the other beaches in Thailand, this one did not have beach umbrellas or vendors selling souvenirs, sarong, or food. There was nobody offering hair braid or manicure/pedicure services either; although one can still get a relaxing Thai massage in some resorts. The accommodation here is even cheaper, starting at 300 baht (about $7) per night for basic fan and regular shower. The downside is the island only gets electricity from 6 pm to 6 am.

Dave also recommended the Tropicana Resort, an easy two-minute walk from Buddha View, and registered. It was nice, clean, and we were warmly welcomed by the cashier who traveled with us on the boat. Brian and I agreed it was best if we put off our diving lessons 'till the next day so we can rest and relax after the tiring 12-hour trip.