Sunday - Apr. 13, 2003

Happy Thai New Year or Songkran Festival to everyone!

We're scuba diving in Koh Tao and we're about to take two more dives in open water that will make us certified divers.

I'm scared. When we dived today I panicked and almost backed out because I was having so much trouble equalizing for the two 12-meter dives today. My ear hurt like somebody stuck a needle in and my nose bled after two dives. I have a congestion which makes it impossible for me to clear the air that's still trapped inside my ears. Every time I blow my nose my ears make squeaking and hissing sounds. I don't think I will be able to make it tomorrow when we're going for the 18-meter and 14-meter dives.

Brian is having the time of his life. To think that it took me about a year to convince him to take diving lessons. He had an ear infection years ago and he was concerned diving will hurt his ear. So I finally got around to it by telling him I would arrange and pay for everything, as my birthday present to him.

Arranging it wasn't as hard as I thought. According to the Internet Koh Tao, the turtle island in the Gulf of Thailand, offers the best value for money to get certified in Thailand. Good diving sites are so plentiful here that every one who comes here lives and breathes diving. The abundance of diving schools and dive resorts ensured a healthy competition that kept prices down. The waters are clear and calm for most part of the year. This 21 sq.km island has a rich marine life in its shallow reefs, capes, coves, and bay.

I picked Buddha-View because it had good rating and came well-recommended in many diving websites, and started corresponding with their point man in Bangkok. His name is Dave, an Englishman based in Khaosan Road, and he was very helpful. He and the manager, named Mark, offered us a discounted rate that made the total cost of a four-day dive course with free four-night basic accommodation and transportation with transfers very very affordable for 8,000 baht, just under $200.

Because of the unexpected two-week school holiday, we opted to move our trip two days earlier. So Wednesday evening found us in "backpackers central" of Khaosan Road to see Dave and pick up our tickets. Brian has never been this part of Bangkok and we both enjoyed watching all the colorful lights, colorful wares, and colorful people. We saw white men with shaved heads looking like Thai monks, Japanese tourists with blond hair looking like white men, and Thai men with dredlocks looking like black men. Many women out in the streets either already their hair in braids or were in the process of getting them done right on the sidewalk.

Around 8:30 pm we put on our backpacks and followed a group of travelers to our aircon bus. The trip was 7-hours long, terribly long for Brian who could never fall asleep in a bus or car. We don't have much choice, the sleeper trains were fully booked even though we made reservations two months earlier. We had a chance to stretch out and sleep on the floor at the bus/boat terminal for 3 hours, then boarded the Koh Tao Cruiser for the final 2-hour leg of this journey. Give credit to Dave for efficiently arranging everything. We were met at the pier by the driver of Buddha View and promptly took our spot in the pick up truck with other travelers who came to Koh Tao for one reason and one reason alone -- to dive.

Buddha View is located in a small shallow bay called Chalok Baan Kao, about 5-minute ride from the town. It is secluded and quieter. With bungalows, bars, and restaurants neatly tucked under the shade of coconut trees. Unlike the other beaches in Thailand, this one did not have beach umbrellas or vendors selling souvenirs, sarong, or food. There was nobody offering hair braid or manicure/pedicure services either; although one can still get a relaxing Thai massage in some resorts. The accommodation here is even cheaper, starting at 300 baht (about $7) per night for basic fan and regular shower. The downside is the island only gets electricity from 6 pm to 6 am.

Dave also recommended the Tropicana Resort, an easy two-minute walk from Buddha View, and registered. It was nice, clean, and we were warmly welcomed by the cashier who traveled with us on the boat. Brian and I agreed it was best if we put off our diving lessons 'till the next day so we can rest and relax after the tiring 12-hour trip.